Total descent, 1889m.
Thursday, 30th July.
Some stats for my own information first:
Total distance, 133 miles.
Total 11 day ascent, 13,983m (45,876ft).
Average ascent per day, 1271m (4170ft).
Up up up down up down down down down.
I was up, ready, had eaten breakfast in my room and was away by 7 this morning. Almost. I was actually in the hotel foyer at 7, but the owner had fired up the coffee machine, so I felt obliged to have a swift expresso and two lattes. These were soon dispatched, however, and by 7:15 I was in my stride, confident that with support from the caffeine I would re-gain the lost 15 minutes, and plenty more besides.
At 7:50 I reached a sign. It said 'Courmayeur 10 hr 10 min'. This was a problem, as I would miss my bus. Generally on this walk the descent times on these signs have been pretty much in keeping with my own, and I've been quicker than the ascent times stated. Therefore I needed to hammer the long ascent to Col des Chavannes in as short a time as possible, then I could slow down. The col was posted as being '4 hr 10 min' away, so I had a challenge. And it was early and cool. I usually walk quite fast and people often ask me whether I get time to look at the scenery? Maybe they think I'm superhuman (though that's doubtful) but you'd have to walk pretty damn fast not to be able to notice what's around you!
It was about 8 miles from the sign to the col and it was all along a single, enormous valley. It was another 'moment', though quite a long moment. It was reminiscent of the Carneddau in Snowdonia in its vastness, and I could quite happily have walked another 8 miles along it. The track rose pretty much at the same gradient throughout, and 2 hours and 40 minutes, 1200 metres of ascent and one golden eagle (the first I've spotted) later I was at the 2603 metre col.
Now I need to settle something. I've grown up saying Mont Blanc, but I've now been in Italy for 11 days and have not stepped one foot into France (actually that's not true, as I stepped precisely one foot into France when I was on top of Becca della Traversière, which straddles the border), therefore from now on I shall use its Italian name, Monte Bianco.
To continue... I'd seen glimpses of Monte Bianco as I walked up the valley, because it's simply too big to hide behind anything, but nothing prepared me for what the massif looked like across a single valley. It is simply enormous. I'd walked close to it on a previous Alps trek but not this close. There was even another convenient person up there (making a phone call!) to take a piccy of me.
Descent to the valley bottom was easy but after a very peaceful morning I was now about to join the Tour du Mont Blanc (it's called that so I can't use Monte Bianco here) for the remaining 8 miles. I began to lose my patience almost immediately. It was packed! Now without trying to sound snotty (which I will), there were people on the path who simply weren't fit enough to be there. There was a ludicrous amount of coughing and wheezing going on. I wonder how much Mountain Rescue time a year is wasted on people suffering from gastric influx.
The irritation lasted just over 45 minutes, where there was a choice. The main path continued down the valley and descended gradually to Courmayeur, whilst a right turn, which was the actual signposted Tour du... and Alta Via 2 path, set off up a final 400 metre climb. I had wanted to go this way as long as time permitted and it now did, so off I went. I was now completely on my own again.
The climb was again worth it for the views, but the nearer I got to Courmayeur the more people I saw. As I was sitting having lunch a large group of teenagers appeared and stopped nearby, carrying pretty small packs. About 10 minutes later the small packs were explained....
With 3 miles to go I reached the inevitable ski slopes, and there were even more people as I knew that a chair lift was operating nearby. At a hut where the lift terminated I stopped for a drink and watched the sunbathers. I also saw the very first person I've seen cycling in the mountains. Strangely though I've seen quite a number of cyclists, it's just that until now they've all been pushing or carrying them. The terrain I've been walking on is so cycle unfriendly I really don't know why they bother.
All that remained for me now was a 700m descent into Courmayeur. The path did well to stay in woods and avoid the ski slopes. About 150m down I overtook a couple, and the girl was really struggling to get down a quite shallow slope. Her partner was looking totally exasperated but trying to hide it. After I passed them it took me another hour to get to the bottom. Every time I came to a tricky section I found myself saying, "She won't like this bit". I just hope they've got torches.
Plan B had been a great success and I reached the bus station in Courmayeur with an hour to spare. The bus would be taking me right back to where I started the walk in Pont-Saint-Martin, and I would be staying at the same B&B before flying home tomorrow. The tourist office was next door so I went up to the lady behind the counter and after establishing that she spoke English asked, "Where is the end of the Alta Via 2?" She replied, "There is no end." I found this very profound and thought I'd better let Jennie know that I couldn't come back, then realised what she meant.
It's been a fantastic, challenging walk and I'd recommend it to anyone who is fairly fit (you'd need to be to cope with the first two days). I've picked up a basic understanding of Italian, even though for the last four days everybody has spoken French! After chats with various people at the huts (and Guy) I would definitely consider returning to Italy to do another (slightly shorter) walk. In fact I already have another area in mind. After three days of ridiculously hot weather I was pleased that it settled into something much more bearable, though the Italians seem to wear far more clothes whilst walking than they need to; shorts and a t-shirt will do nicely in my opinion.
Last days of long distance walks are often rubbish but this had been a 19 mile beauty. Official ends of long distance walks are nearly always rubbish and this was no exception. After my brief conversation in the tourist office I decided to go and find an Alta Via 2 sign which only pointed in one direction, as this had to be the end. It was right outside, next to bus bay 3. I walked up to it and gave it a friendly slap.
-- Posted from Kev's iPhone
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